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63 About this deal
By posting your questions comments in the Blog Comments Section below, you give me a central location to answer all the questions I get asked, you help the blog by providing future readers with the benefit of the question asked and the answer given. It also helps me know what blog your question relates to! All that being said, I will help where I can. There are loads of others, too many to name in this blog. It’s important to note and it may sound obvious but when you convert one plug to another you will not automatically receive the service associated with the other plug. For example I had a customer who had changed the plug on the end of their satellite cable and didn’t know why the Freeview signal would not work when plugged into the TV. As with all F plugs, but especially the weatherproof types.It’s important that the connections are done up tight. This should be finger tightened as much as possible and then an extra quarter turn or so that the plug can not be untwisted with your hand. This is to maintain the integrity of the screen, prevent and RF leakage and water ingress. A 11mm spanner is perfect for this task but long nose pliers are also suitable.
The BNC plug is a plug that inserts in position and then twists to remain in place. BNC stands for Bayonette Neil Consellman after the man who designed the plug and is commonly used for analogue CCTV systems. They come in many types but the most common type is a crimp on connection. Gripit Fixings – These were on the Dragons Den TV programme in the UK and was one of the biggest success stories from the programme. I use these for very large and heavy TV’s as they are a very strong and durable fixing. I recommend getting the blue ones which require a 25mm pilot hole to be drilled. The plug part is then inserted and with a screwdriver two rings can then be rotated which sit behind the plasterboard – the bolt can then be inserted and tightened which forces the wings to squeeze the wall behind the plasterboard. There are few ways that this task can be carried out. If you can find the studs behind the plasterboard. If you can, normal screws will be fine. I recommend getting some long ones as the screws will need to go through the plaster, plasterboard and then into the stud. To find the stud, you may need a stud finder but some of these can really be hit and miss. The good news is once you have found one, the next stud should be 16" or 24" along, this is actually marked on most tape measures with a small arrow. If you can’t find the stud, do not despair as most TV's are so light these-days that is doesn't matter. There are a couple of other fixings I recommend: Another worthwhile mention if you want to get TV as close to the wall as you can is the Samsung Frame TV. The design of the TV is so that it looks like a picture Frame, in fact when on standby the TV can show a picture so it look’s like an ordinary picture, but the one of the good things about it an the reason for including it in this blog is that the TV comes with it’s own mount which literally only sits a few millimetres away from the wall. Also these come with a One Connect connection making them the perfect choice for slimline TV wall mounts. Gripit Fixings – Again, these have a used for dry-lined walls owing the shallow dept of the plug, which allows it to be inserted and fit in between the plasterboard and the solid wall behind. This would not be possible with conventional wall anchors which usually will not fit in the space.
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The problem is with installing fused spur units for TV’s is that the mains plug needs to be cut away from the TV lead. This isn’t a problem if your TV comes with a detachable mains lead but if your TV comes with a moulded lead, you will need to cut this away to be cable to connect it to the fused spur. This could void the warranty on your TV so it’s up to you if you think this is worth the risk. If you do choose to cable your TV into a fused spur it’s important that this is done by someone electrically competent and that the correct rated fuse is installed into the spur to protect the cable and TV. Most fused spurs come with a 13 amp fuse inside which is quite a lot for most new TV’s. I recommend removing the fuse from the TV plug and inserting this into the fused spur. A small flat headed screwdriver will enable you to leaver it out. Most new TV’s have this in the mind and will have the cables leaving the TV parallel at the rear so that it doesn’t matter about the bend radius of the cables. Notable Mentions Drill bit(s). These need to be correct size for the fixings you're using. Most fixings either use 8mm or 10mm drill bits. Plasterboard walls are constructed from a series of wood uprights with plasterboard sheets in-between. The wood studs will be strong enough to support the weight of your TV, but the sheets of plasterboard will not without special fixings. There are many types for F plugs for different size coaxial cables and plugs that terminate differently like screw on F plugs, crimp on and compression plugs but in essence they are very similar.
I always get asked, what height for my TV? The answer is quite simple, wherever you want it. But the “recommended” height is, when you’re sitting down in your viewing position that your eye level is between half way and one third of the TV height. I must say, personally I prefer this a little bit higher. Apart from the height, you will want to consider where about(right to left) that you want the TV on the wall. Usually you will want this centre of the wall, but you may want to centre it to your sofa or bed instead. There are loads of tools that you may need for mounting a TV to a wall. Some of the most common are: You may find that the wall is just made of a wood or something similar like chipboard, MDF, Plywood or chipboard. This is not very common in house, but you may encounter it in outbuilding, converted sheds etc. These can be easy to mount to as you often just screw straight into the surface, but for the insertion of larger bolts a pilot hole may need to be drilled. The plugs are the most expensive to buy out of all three of the F plug types and like crimp on F plugs cannot be used again. Once installed however what makes them so good is that no matter how hard you try there is a good chance that you will never be able to pull that plug away from the cable,which even the best terminated screw on or crimp on F plug will. In fact you’re more likely to cause damage to the coax cable itself by pulling so hard.Thread bolts (with washers) through fixing holes and finger tighten into plugs in wall. If you get two bolts in finger tight this will usually be enough to free up your hands.
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